Ally-SG, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, is an ester of stearyl alcohol and glycyrrhetinic acid. It has been shown to act as a skin conditioning agent and evidences significant soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate has also been suggested for use as a skin lightener/whitener.i
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate has a highly oil-soluble saturated molecular group structure. It dissolves in lipidic environments better than glycyrrhetinic acid. It has good compatibility; it easily dissolves in most liquid lipids and liquid alcohols. Compared to glycyrrhetinic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate has a low melting point and it has better soothing properties than the well known soothing properties of glycyrrhizic acid. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate has a long history of use In cosmetics.
Both the total amount of percutaneous absorption and the absorption rate of antiinflammatory materials such as stearyl glycyrrhetinate has been shown to increase significantly when formulated into a product that also contains hydrogenated lecithin. Further, stearyl glycyrrhetinate-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles evidence delayed andsustained release of stearyl glycyrrhetinate.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate has been used as an ingredient in over forty sold-at-retail cosmetic products including mascaras, sunscreens, BB creams, concealers, facial moisturizers and facial treatment products, lip balms, cleansers, anti-aging products and eye creams
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate has been found by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review to be“Safe as Used” at concentrations up to 1% by weight.It has also been determined as unlikely to cause an allergenic reaction.vi Typical use levels are 0.5 – 1.0% by weight.
Consumers often complain about the difficulty of uniform application and the final feel of sunscreens from almost all delivery forms. Ally-Nylon12 can greatly improve these aspects.
|INCI name:||Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate|
|Origin:||SG is grown in Asia and manufactured in Japan Glycyrrhetinic acid isolated from the shredded root of licorice plants, Glycyrrhiza glabra; stearyl alcohol derived from vegetable sources|
|Production method:||Esterification of glycyrrhetinic acid and stearyl alcohol|
|Microbiology:||Total bacteria count: ≤100cfu/g Total yeast and mold: ≤100cfu/g Pathogens: none detected|
|Shelf life:||Unopened, 36 months from date of manufacture|
|Storage:||Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight|
Typical analytical results (Not to be used as specifications)
|Appearance||White to pale yellowish powder|
|Loss on drying||6.0 – 7.5|
|Residue on ignition||<1%|
|Glycyrrhetinic acid content||0.28g/cm3|
|Stearyl glycyrrhetinate content||95.0 – 102.0%|
Soluble up to 5% in most lipids, including fatty acids and esters. Very soluble in ethyl alcohol.