Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP ethyl palmate is produced by esterifying the entire free fatty acid content of the pericarp—the outer oily flesh—of the fruit of the African oil palm, Elaeis guineensis. Both the palm oil and the ethyl alcohol used to esterify the oil are certified organic. The esterification process used to produce AllyEster™ EP is also certified organic. The esterification process is accomplished in the United States. Before esterification, the palm oil has been refined, bleached and deodorized to provide the cleanest product possible. Since the level of residual proteinaceous material in refined,
bleached and deodorized vegetable oils is typically 0%, the allergenic potential is extremely low. Ethyl palmate is considered non-allergenic.
Elaeis guineensis is a tropical forest palm native to Africa. When grown in plantations it produces 3–8 times more oil from a given area.
AllyEster™ EP is an extremely versatile ester. Due to its formulary effects and broad characteristics, it can stand on its own as a principal formulating ingredient as well as be used to replace a multitude of ingredients that are often more expensive
AllyEster™ EP is an excellent high quality emollient, and an elegant moisturizer with a fine silky feel on skin.
The fatty acid composition of palm oil varies over a modest range depending on many factors including soil conditions and composition, cover plants used before planting the palm, proper culling of the developing palms, protection against copper deficiency, rainfall, sunlight and minimum temperature.
Typical Fatty Acid Composition of Palm Oilii
|Carbon number : unsaturated bonds||Common name||% Range|
|12:0||Lauric acid||0.1 – 1.00|
|14:0||Myristic acid||0.9 – 1.50|
|16:0||Palmitic acid||41.8 – 46.8|
|16:1||Palmitoleic acid||0.1 – 0.30|
|18:0||Stearic acid||4.2 – 5.10|
|18:1||Oleic acid||37.3 – 40.8|
|18:2||Linoleic acid||9.1 – 11.0|
|18:3||Linoleic acid||0.0 – 0.60|
|20:0||Arachidic acid||0.2 – 0.70|
The percent composition of the ethyl esters in AllyEster™ EP generally follows the ranges shown above:
Typical Ester Composition of AllyEster™ EP (Not for specification purposes)
|CAS No.||Ester||% Range|
|106-33-2||Ethyl Laurate||0.05 – 0.70|
|124-06-1||Ethyl Myristate||0.50 – 2.50|
|628-97-7||Ethyl Palmitate||35.0 – 49.0|
|111-61-5||Ethyl Linoleate||6.50 – 11.0|
|111-62-6||Ethyl Oleate||25.0 – 42.0|
|544-35-4||Ethyl Stearate||2.50 – 5.00|
Formulating with AllyEster™ EP
AllyEster™ EP is easily incorporated into formulas: creams, lotions, shampoos,conditioners, body washes, moisturizers, lip sticks, lip balms, foundations and sun care products. AllyEster™ EP does not exhibit any incompatibilities with virtually all cosmetic formulary ingredients. A liquid at room temperature, AllyEster™ EP is typically used from 1 – 25% by weight depending on the type of product.
AllyEster™ EP is highly substantive and has excellent absorbency on the skin, greatly enhancing the character of other formula ingredients in the stratum corneum. It is rapidly absorbed into the skin and leaving the skin silky, dry, soft and flexible. AllyEster™ EP can provide a reservoir for other ingredients, keeping them in intimate contact with skin for long periods of time.
In many products, AllyEster™ EP imparts a lustrous shine even when used at low levels.A non-aggressive diluent and/or solvent for other esters, natural and synthetic oils and petrolatum waxes, AllyEster™ EP reduces or eliminates tackiness and can help provide “remove-ability” for many strong adhesives and fixatives.
AllyEster™ EP In Creams and Lotions and Emulsions in General:
• AllyEster™ EP can be used to replace most liquid cosmetic esters, except those that are very ‘heavy’, on a 1-to-1 basis
• It has a better, elegant, and lighter ‘feel’ than other esters, without being “squeaky”.
• Replacing 10-15% of a solid ester already present in a product with AllyEster™ EP can enhance feel without requiring reformulation.
• It emulsifies easily using all conventional emulsifying systems.
• Most vegetable waxes are miscible in AllyEster™ EP, enhancing the feel of the waxes
and making processing significantly easier.
• AllyEster™ EP is compatible with most silicone emulsion systems.
AllyEster™ EP In Makeup:
• AllyEster™ EP provides good slip making the application of pigmented products smoother and easier. It helps to provide smooth application and then is absorbed
leaving behind a more substantive product.
• AllyEster™ EP is an excellent emollient and ‘pigment wetter’ in lipsticks. It provides extra shine, slip and a lighter feel on the lips. AllyEster™ EP acts as an excellent solubilizer for virtually all vegetable waxes. AllyEster™ EP reduces or eliminates the tackiness caused by many of the film-formers commonly used in lipsticks and, since AllyEster™ EP is absorbed, it leaves behind a more substantive film.
• AllyEster™ EP can be the base of a superior binder for pressed powders, providing better ‘blendability’ especially for cream-powder products.
• Used at low levels in eyeshadow, AllyEster™ EP can make application easier and smoother even in products with high levels of film-formers. AllyEster™ EP is not
recommended in mascara where it might lead to transfer to the surrounding skin before the product dries thoroughly.
• In makeup removers, AllyEster™ EP can provide an extra dimension of solubilization that helps to remove products that do not yield easily to most removers. AllyEster™ EP In Bath Products:
• 5-8% AllyEster™ EP will make a blooming bath oil feel less oily and more elegant, while often providing just enough extra solubilization to allow the use of a fragrance that would otherwise be incompatible.
• Just a little AllyEster™ EP can help a body wash leave behind an elegant moisturized feel.
AllyEster™ EP In Hair Care:
• AllyEster™ EP makes combing easier, delivers extra shine and is never sticky.
• In hairsprays, AllyEster™ EP is compatible with ethyl alcohol and all conventional film formers. Just a little delivers excellent shine without being tacky.
• In shampoos and conditioners too, AllyEster™ EP provides better, longer-lasting shine. AllyEster™ EP In Other Products:
• Pre-electric shave: Low levels of AllyEster™ EP provides a smoother, more comfortable shave with less razor drag.
• In shave creams, AllyEster™ EP lubricates for a smoother shave and rinses clean.
• AllyEster™ EP delivers easier application in both antiperspirants and deodorants when used in any of the conventional bases at 1 to 3%.
• When used at low levels in cosmetic pencils, AllyEster™ EP helps pigment wetting and provides smoother, more uniform application.
• In fragrance and fragranced products, AllyEster™ EP can provide good cosolubilization for difficult to incorporate fragrance oils and other fragrance
ingredients. AllyEster™ EP can replace other, heavier esters in conventional skin perfumes, colognes and sachets leaving a much less oily final feel.
• For jar-lite candles, AllyEster™ EP offers several advantages. It burns cleanly, does not cause ‘wick blossom’, and it improves fragrance lift. AllyEster™ EP is an excellent solubilizer/co-solubilizer for most fragrance oils that are usually incompatible with paraffins and microcrystalline axes. AllyEster™ EP serves to soften most wax bases to help a jar-lite candle to adhere uniformly to the container providing a better aesthetic appearance. AllyEster™ EP is not recommended for free-standing candles.
• In body oils and personal lubricants, AllyEster™ EP helps the product feel less oily while maintaining excellent slip.
The following types of products containing ethyl palmate have been successfully marketed:
Acne Treatment Kit
Fragrance & Fragrance
Moisturizer with SPF
Powder Hair Therapy Shampoo
AllyEster™ EP in Nanoemulsions
Here’s a generalized, easy method to produce nanoemulsions using AllyEster™ EP.
1. Dissolve oil soluble actives, sunscreens and butters in AllyEster™ EP. Heat to 50 oC if needed to achieve a uniform smooth liquid. (Phase A)
2. Add an equal weight of Ally-Lecithsol to Phase A. Mix until all the lecithin is dissolved, while heating to 50 oC (Phase B)
3. Add water soluble active ingredients to water Phase (B) with adequate mixing.
4. Heat water phase to 50 oC
5. Add Phase A at 50 oC slowly to Phase B under high shear. Mix under high shear until uniformly smooth.
6. Add 1-2% Ally-Lecithsol, begin cool down.
7. Add 2% of a 50% solution of Certified Organic Preservative BIOSECUR 160 (AE) at or below 40 0C.
• Generally use 1% Biosecur preservative, based on biological challenge. 1% is adequate, but each formula is unique and must be tested for appropriate level.
Certified Organic preservative BIOSECUR 160 is Certified Organic, NOP, EEC, water soluble, GRAS and edible
• AllyEster™ EP is 100% plant derived and therefore has a naturally occurring faint floral odor at ambient temperature. The level is proportional to the temperature, and restoration to ambient temperature removes the floral odor. Allyson Enterprises, Inc. can supply and recommend fragrances which neutralize the odor during the heating process without affecting the final formulation.
AllyEster™ EP in Cyclomethicone Replacement
AllyEster™ EP can be used to mimic the tactile nature of cyclomethicone in gelled products, particularly anhydrous gelled products. Allyson Enterprises, Inc. offers a unique gelling agent. AE gelling agent 51 is not certified organic, but when used at less than 5% in a formula, the formula can still qualify as organic.
The gelling agent is used by dispersing the gelling agent in AllyEster™ EP and slowly raising the temperature to 50°-70°C. When the liquid is clear, mix for an additional 10 minutes at steady temperature, then remove mixer and allow cooling without stirring. It’s possible to experiment with various additions to the AllyEster™ EP prior to gelling to achieve an anhydrous delivery system or final product.
|Ingredient||Weight %||Weight %|
|Sodium Hydroxide 30% aqueous||1.00||1.00|
|B||AllyEster™ EP (Certified Organic Ethyl Palmate) [Allyson]||77.45|
|Stearic Acid XXX||2.50||2.50|
|Rosamox (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus
officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract )[Kemin]
|Optiphen (Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) [Ashland]||1.00||1.00|
|Ecobiofluid Pomegranate (Punica Granatum Fruit Juice)||0.50||0.50|
|Ecobiofluid Pomegranate (Punica Granatum Fruit Juice)||0.50||0.50|
Stability: Both formulas are stable for one month at room temperature and one month at 45°C.
Organoleptic properties: The formula with AllyEster™ EP is somewhat glossier and slightly whiter. The AllyEster™ EP product has a more elegant, silkier feel with excellent slip and playtime. This difference is more pronounced after one month. There is no perceivable difference in odor..
|Product Name:||Certified Organic AllyEster™ EP|
|INCI name:||Ethyl Palmate|
|Production method:||Natural, plantation grown, certified organic palm oil esterified with
certified organic ethyl alcohol.
|Compliance:||This product complies with the regulations of the US National Organic Program. This product is kosher, vegan, lacto vegetarian,ovo lacto vegetarian, halal, and “GMO” free.AllyEster™ EP is a non-primary irritant(RIPT) and a non-primary sensitizer (occlusive patch)|
|Microbiology:||Total bacteria count: <100cfu/g
Total yeast and mold: <10cfu/g
Pathogens: none detected
|Shelf life:||Unopened,12 months from date of manufacture|
|Storage:||Store in original container at 40 – 80°F (4.4 – 26.6°C). Protect from
prolonged exposure to light, heat, air and moisture.